It's really amazing how even when you attempt to make the simplest of plans, things can change in a split second.  In this case it was at the R.E.I. Albuquerque which was suppose to be a quick return of some boots and getting some topo maps for the local forests.  As I was sitting on the ground literally surrounded by unfolded maps and open guide books my friend started a conversation with an employee.  This guy really knew his stuff and could tell that we weren't looking for the standard fanny pack guided nature tours.  He grabbed a map of Utah and a guide book for the four corners area and took his time to explain how to get to some of the most amazing scenery and relics that most people don't know exist.  If you look at a map of Utah, below Arches National Park, there is a little blot of BLM land called Grand Gulch Primitive Area.  The specific hike he recommended was a 10 mile round trip down Kane Gulch to a series of ruins and petroglyphs left  behind from the Pueblo culture. We arrived at Goosenecks State Park late at night to mostly empty and free campsites.  Camp setup was fast even though we had no idea of our real surroundings outside the light our headlamps provided.  I woke to the glow of a hundred different hues of orange bouncing from canyon walls, slowly warming our surroundings.  For a simple launching point into the area  we were going to, it was a pleasant and encouraging sight to get us on our way to Kane Gulch.

I have been to ruin sites such as Mesa Verde NP before, but wasn't satisfied due to the level of restriction and law that the NPS holds too so tightly. Although I understand that those restrictions are necessary because of the ease of access to Mesa Verde and the traffic it gets,  this hike was nothing like that.  Some of the kivas had been left so untouched that even petrified ears of corn sat in the very spot that the Pueblo's had left behind. Although this area is becoming increasingly popular according to the BLM volunteers, it seems as though though the hikers willing and able to do the hike have respected how sacred and special this area really is.  There were no fencing and bars blocking you from these sights, only winding paths leading you to them if your keep your eyes open.  These structures were mostly made from 1060 to 1270 and yet even the grinding stones used remained untarnished and in place.  What makes this area so primitive is the fact that there is literally almost no water during the season when the Gulch is most accessible.  We had to double filter our water from muddy holes no deeper than 4 inches to make it in and out.  The hike itself is no joke as you have to search for stone cairns to lead you the right way and you can easily find yourself disoriented and off the actual trail.  

Indo did an incredible job getting in and out of the gulch given her age and experience.  I made sure to keep her well hydrated and energized as she made sure to keep our "pack" all together by staying ahead 10 feet or so and looking back at us every so often to make sure we were still following.  By the time we got out the sun had began to set and we were left searching the mesa top for a place to camp.  In BLM land you can camp for free in any undeveloped campground which led us to an isolated spot in the Comb Wash.  The next day we knew that we would have to give Indo a good break, as the stone and sand can be really tough on the paws of a dog. So we did a simple loop trail to an overview of some more kivas to stretch our legs a bit.  We spent the rest of the day enjoying our campsite and gathering firewood  that would stave off the freezing temperatures of the coming desert night.  The sun broke over the ridge of the wash eventually drew me out from my bundle of layers buried inside my sleeping bag. 

Temperatures around Utah are starting to drop dramatically and snow is on its way in the next few days, so we thought we would take it easy and "see the sights" at Arches NP.  This place is like going to a zoo or an aquarium, where you really want to explore and understand what it has to offer but the ridiculous amount of people geared to the max(for what reason I dent know considering most everything can be seen from your car) and general idiocy turn what should be a natural experience into more of a Disney ride.  I did go ahead an get a new annual national park pass, as they will get you and everyone in your car into any NP for the following year.  It really was worth it to drive through the place, the arches are really quite amazing but we didn't linger too long and started to go back south through Capital Reef NP.  I didn't really get to see much of that place because we need to  get further south before the REAL cold weather hits but, it was pleasant to watch to sun set on those massive sandstone walls as we drove our way down. Our plan was to go to Bryce Canyon NP for some hiking tomorrow but after talking to some locals and rangers we got the info that a big cold front is coming in that will drop temperatures to around 17 degrees.  Now I know me and my friend are geared and built to sustain in even that cold of weather but I didn't want to put that kind of stress on Indo.  She is a consideration in every move I make and shes just too young for that sort of weather.  I don't look at her as a restriction to this trip because she brings such joy to daily life out here.  You will truly see a different and beautiful side of your dog if you take them to the wilds. 

That brings me to where we are now, a discount hotel room that is actually quite comfortable and most importantly-- warm.  Our plans are changing every day because of the need to adapt to this whims of mother nature.  So we are going to the southern california coast for some beach camping and exploration of a region that I have never seen.  I've never been below San Francisco so I am really excited for the idea of laying down on some warm beach sand and watching the magic of the Pacific Ocean. From there, who knows? It doesn't matter because this country has so much to offer I cant help but to stay on track with this reconnection to the land and inspiration it provides behind every curve of this journey.         

I was born in Georgia, but I am quite certain I do not belong anywhere.  To this disposition, I see only one advantage -- to be able to go and come as I please.  "Always coming and going; saving time on hellos and goodbyes".  Sitting here I realize that although I am leaving this palce, it wont be forever.  I have come to terms that for me and everyone else, things rarely are. 

Today I say goodbye to the north Georgia mountains. Tomorow I am heading to Arkansas, hopefully to get as far west into the state as driveable.  My destinations are several wilderness areas protected within Ozark National Forest.  I need to see something new, and those sandstone bluffs with hidden caves are calling my name.  I expect it will just now be getting cold and the leaves turning, but we should be well prepared for that.  It am interested to see how this whole dynamic plays out.  Is this still possible?  Is this worth it?  Am I ready?  These questions linger in the back of my mind.  They are slow dramas, waiting to play themselves out.

  I want to grasp this freedom. but I think it will show itself -- maybe hidden in recesses of one of those caves.  Thats the first place I am going to look anyways.  I am sitting in all but familure place at 9:00 PM and my mind is days ahead of schedule, completely and totally somewhere else.   Tomorow we are going to stock up on supplies and finish getting the rest of the checklist.  I hope we don't have to go down to Atlanta and come back up this way to get it all done.   

What else is out there?

I'm sure as hell going to keep finding out.